Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and allotments across the city. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the soils the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Across Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a fence on

Alicia Turner
Alicia Turner

Kaelen Vance is a seasoned gaming journalist with over a decade of experience covering esports and indie game developments.