Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.